Today, my spontaneous trip through Cambodia and Laos is soon
coming to an end before entering Thailand. Although these countries,
underdeveloped that they are, maintain some of the highlights of natural beauty
and experiences in my journey through Southeast Asia, it’s not the countries
themselves that have made this month so uplifting for me.
I was recently asked by a good friend of mine; “who has awed
you the most on your journey so far?”
Without a doubt, it is the people I have traveled through
Cambodia, and Laos with. Stephanie and Sarah, my Swiss-French travel mates, and
Anna my Swedish soul sister who I traveled with months ago in Nepal. The
miracles of the Universe have given me three enormous gifts by bringing these
people to me. I truly believe in the power and beauty of the dawn. In our
darkest moments, we must remember that the light always comes back. Today,
right now, I am reaching my light after a dark and stormy month. At the end of
my time in Vietnam I contracted a parasite, which caused several health
problems for me while in Cambodia, and required me to go to the doctor 4 times
(and the pharmacy at least 7 times) to get some kind of answers about what was
going on in my body. Even at the international clinics, I was not receiving the
appropriate attention and care that I needed. I was afraid of what was going on
my body, and the information I was reading online was definitely not helpful.
Looking up doctor information online is probably the worst idea someone could
have. I type in cold and flu symptoms, result: maybe it’s a cold or flu, but
probably cancer or death. I type in something about a sun rash, result: maybe
it’s a rash, but probably HIV, cancer, or death. I type in fainting symptoms,
result: maybe you were dehydrated, but it’s probably diabetes, HIV, or cancer.
The lesson I learned: DO NOT type in “urethral worms” on a google search
engine. Not unless you are completely removed from any possible parasitic
situation and have a strong stomach. So… of course, I did this already, and
that’s how I learned this lesson.
I would call this last month my darkest moment, and these women, my dawn.
I met Steph and Sarah in Nha Trang, Vietnam and after only a
couple of days of getting to know them they asked me if I wanted to join them
going through Cambodia, and possibly Laos. In my head, I was hesitant to commit
to traveling with people I had barely known even though we were going the same
route out of Vietnam and through Cambodia. However, in my heart I could feel
the glow of their spirits and how being with them would mean being surrounded
by goodness. Thankfully, I trust my heart more than my head.
Together we traveled to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia,
where we experienced the deeply moving history of the Khmer regime. I walked
through the S21 museum, and the killing fields, where oppression, torture, and
mass graves were up-kept in memorial of the thousands of people who were killed
in a time not so long ago. I met veterans of this time, and was touched by
countless torture stories. I explored the Russian market, and walked along the
waterfront. The hostel we stayed at was very nice, with a pool, so whether I
was in the city meeting tuk-tuk drivers, or at the hostel relaxing by the pool
– I really enjoyed Phnom Penh. I learned about the local night-life, how
marijuana is an essential every day thing even though it is illegal, how bars
make “happy” pizza and shakes, sell laughing gas balloons, and the occasional
MDMA or marijuana shot. It was fascinating to learn about how these places and
things could possibly exist in such a corrupt country. Particularly since I had
met half a dozen people who told me stories about being arrested, going to jail
or paying ridiculous bribes, if they were caught even remotely related to these
substances.
The museums and nightlife are considered essentials for anyone briefly passing through Phnom Penh. But still, I enjoyed the market and the pool above all else. I am very lazy sometimes.
After a few days, the Swiss chicks and I traveled to an
island in the south called Koh Rong - a backpackers’ paradise. The island
consisted of 24 different beaches, including my favorite – Long Beach, where
the sand squeaked like new shoes under my feet and the sunset fell perfectly
down in front of me. There were no roads, no need for shoes really. There were
no tuk-tuks on the island. To get around you hop on a water buffalo, rent a
boat, or you walk along the sandy beach path to the next place. On one
particular day we took a tour with a boatload of French people, and got to
snorkel, sunbathe, and even swim with the plankton that looked like underwater
green glowing air bubbles in the night. After a few days on the island,
symptoms of the parasites became more prominent and I knew that being on an
island with no roads or doctors was not best for me. I left the girls to return
to Phnom Penh so that I could see a doctor. It was a difficult, yet intuitive,
decision for me to make.
From Phnom Penh, I finally made it to Siem Reap, to the
Angkor Wat temples I heard so much about. The sunset there was divine. In Siem
Reap, I saw a spectacular parade for Chinese New Year, spent a day on the
Mekong River/Lake experiencing life in the floating villages there, and eating
delicious and healthy street food. It
felt good to be healthy, (despite the dusty pollution). The most amazing
feeling about Siem Reap, was when my soul sister Anna, whom I traveled and
trekked with in Nepal, reunited with me to spontaneously travel with me and the
Swiss girls from Cambodia to Laos. When Sarah and Steph rejoined us in Siem
Reap (along with some other absolutely fantastic friends I made in Vietnam) my
resting time was over and the next adventure began.
Throughout all of this my health was less-than normal. I was
concerned, taking all kinds of medicines, trying anything and everything the
doctors suggested no matter how ridiculously rude or under-qualified they
appeared to be. I meditated a lot, and focused
on healing myself from any of the fears I had about being sick. However,
trusting in what is good and perfect to happen is probably the hardest
spiritual thing to do. Having blind faith is enormously difficult.
These girls, who I am still traveling with, and still in
complete awe of, helped me get through this time. Not only was I able to focus
on enjoying the time I was having with them, they also lovingly gave me the
support that I needed. I had prayed for God to surround me with good people,
positivity and love – and that’s when I met Anna. Before I met Sarah and Steph,
I prayed for people who had a deep mutual love, who I could feel safe and at
home with. My prayers have been answered a thousand-fold by sending these ladies
into my life.
Each of these women have touched my soul in different ways,
and more deeply than I could have asked for, or imagined happening when I first
began my journey. I am on a solo adventure. I am encountering people every day,
of all kinds, learning new things from them, about myself. I have learned the kind
of people that are not good for my soul, the kind of people that are perfect
for temporary adventures, and the kind of people who enrich me and make me
thirst for more love and goodness.
You can learn a lot about a person by how they travel. Whether they complain or not, what kinds of questions they ask people, how they speak to locals, whether they use manners or not, what kinds of activities they are drawn to during the day and the evening – all of these things and more.
When we arrived in Laos we spent some time on 4,000 Islands
in Don Det exploring the beaches, and daytime life. It was really fun for me to
take in the hippy-atmosphere. The no shoes, no shirt life - just like in Koh
Rong, Cambodia. The most beautiful thing about Laos - aside from the authentic
beauty, life on the Mekong River, and the tremendous mountainous views
throughout the hill-country – the most beautiful thing has been the sunsets.
Every night, a bright orange ball descends behind the mountains, or the jungle
horizon, and every night I look at it and I am in complete awe of my life and
the perfect circumstances that have brought me here. I am among good and loving
people every day. Not just that, not just friends that are fun and make me feel
good, but spirits who shine and provoke a powerful movement in my heart so that
my phoenix wings expand and my soul is soaring. I am in Laos, on the side of
the world I (ignorantly) never even thought I wanted to visit, in a country that
I never planned to set foot in even after making my way to Asia. I am sitting
on a deserted sandy beach watching the big orange ball descend and looking at
the wavy mirror reflection of light that seems infinite. I am sitting on my
hostel balcony watching the colors of the sky change as orange and yellow shine
behind layers of jagged mountainous shadows. I am lying on a raft in the river
watching the trees change color, the mosquitos come out, and feeling the air
slowly cool. With tears in my eyes I am
filled with the spirit, overjoyed, and bursting with gratitude. I look next to
me, and I have these absolutely astounding girls, who have changed my life just
by my knowing them, and there is nothing more perfect.
I can’t speak very much about Cambodia, because I was sick
and spent much of my time there resting. However, I can say that Laos I am in
awe of. The natural beauty of the country, the warmth of the people, and the
encounters I’ve had with locals, have truly made me fall in love with this
place. All I can say to Laos, Cambodia, to Steph, Sarah, and Anna, is Namaste. I see and bless the God in you,
and I thank you for sharing your beauty and the beauty of the world with me.
Peace on you.
