The Best of Thai

One of the things I fell in love with in Thailand was the language.

First are the many English phrases that tourists here over and over again like, "kha," "no have," "have," "cannot," "can," "finish," and the overall Southeast Asian go-to of "same same but different." The reason the people speak like this in English, in most Southeast Asian countries, is because it is a literal translation of their language. Mai dai - cannot. Mai me - no have. Me mai - you have?

The politeness form used in every day language is "kha" if you are a woman, and "krab" if you are a man. Sometimes i would overhear phone conversations and every other word was kha or krab. It's yes, it's thank you, you're welcome, and simply serves as an overall respectful recognition of the other person.

My favorite thing about the language was the intonation. It sounded like something I would call a whine. Thank you was never just khabkhun kha, it was khabkhun khaaaaaa with a rising inflection on the last note of kha. It became less like a whine as time went on, and more like a song. After 6 weeks in the country I enjoyed using local phrases and intonations as a way of communicating. Tinglish. By the end I would just throw in "kha" at the end of every sentence. "Okay khaaaa!"

Although Thailand was not my favorite place in Southeast Asia, it was one of the places that felt like home. Everything there is communicable, convenient, and navigable. Most places are not far from a dusty city with a thai massage, motorbike rental, 7/11, and fried chicken nearby. What more could you need?

The north of Thailand, as well as Koh Tao, and Koh Lanta (islands in the south) were by far the best and most memorable parts of my experiences there. The people were friendly, the food was fantastic, the shopping was fun, the activities affordable, and the environment to meet people - both locals and travelers - was saturated. Bangkok was not my favorite place, not because it was a big city, or crowded with tourists, no, it was because the local people were obviously burnt out by tourists. On several ocasions I experienced unkind interactions among the tourist handlers, even locals deciding to ignore me when we were in the middle of a conversation. Truth be told, communication was exhausting and had to be extremely clear so as not to offend or insult, and even then, sometimes I would walk away as the one feeling insulted.

In 8 weeks, beginning from the North, I went to Chiang Rai, Pai, Chiang Mai, Sukhothai, Ayuttaya, Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Bangkok (two week break for Myanmar followed by land border crossing to...), Mae Sot, Tak, Chiang Mai, Bangkok (for a 12 hr bus layover), Chumphon, Koh Tao, Surat Thani, Krabi, Koh Lanta, Koh PhiPhi, and Hat Yai before land crossing into Malaysia.

There was so much that I did and saw in Thailand, and it was the longest I have stayed in one country since I began traveling in 2014. Here's what stuck out the most;

Most Visited Place

7ELEVEN! Back to the land of convenience, where there are 7Elevens on every corner - making all of my first aid, beverage, and food needs easily met. The go-to for backpackers are the sandwich toasties, the cigarettes, and the Chiang beer. On top of this, 7Eleven has become such a cornerstone for travelers in Thailand, that a lot of the t-shirts sold on the street will simply have their logo on it to sell to tourists. The first time I saw a 7Eleven in Asia was in Thailand, and it was like finding the Holy Grail. Then I learned that the Holy Grail was on every corner. 

Best Shopping

It is a toss-up between the night market in Chiang Mai, and Khoasan Road in Bangkok. The clothing is so cheap, and usually the material was such good quality, that I couldn't go wrong. With the exception of the several pairs of shorts or pants that would continually rip on the same butt-seam - I had no shoppers guilt. I bought everything I needed, to the point that Thailand left me equipped with a new speaker system, new clothing, shoes, dresses, hats, sarongs, and everything in between. It was heaven on earth for someone who had been traveling wearing the same six items of clothing for eight months. My confidence was in need of a wardrobe change. Chiang Mai was cheaper than Bangkok, and in Bangkok the bargaining was not nearly as friendly as in the north. When push comes to shove, I still walked away with all that I needed.

Easiest Border Crossing

I entered Thailand from Laos, and also from Myanmar, and I left Thailand entering into Malaysia. BY FAR the simplest, easiest, and fastest border crossing was going from Laos to Thailand. It was also the saddest to be leaving behind such an incredible experience during my time there. 

Most Spontaneous Adventure

Almost all of my spontaneous adventures happened in Pai. One day, I went for a walk on my own and came back with my first tattoo. Another day, my friends and I were leaving a waterfall, and needed a taxi. I said it would be better to hitchhike instead of paying for a taxi - since pretty much everyone leaving the waterfall would be returning to the city. So, we hitchhiked, and the people who picked us up ended up being from the same group we met at a bar the night before. They gave us a ride back to Pai, and then to the canyon to watch the sunset together, and we continued a night of music and amusement from there.

Best Food

By far, green curry with chicken. There was one particular place in Mae Sot that changed my perception of green curry - forever. It was run by a middle aged couple and located in the center of town. There was nothing to do in Mae Sot, so after a day of walking about with a Spanish friend I made, we ran into the only restaurant open for an 8pm meal and it turned out to be the best Thai food of my life. An enormous vat of green curry, spicier than "Thai spicy" as requested, and filled with vegetables.

Cheapest Food

Pad Thai. Pad Thai all day, every day, anywhere, any time, for around $1.

Best Day Tour for My Money

The cooking class I took in Chiang Mai was deliciously memorable. My travel buddies and I went to the market to learn about the foods, and although I was strung out on only a couple of hours of sleep, I woke right up when the heat was turned on. It was interesting to learn about the spices, fruits, and vegetables that virtually don't exist in America. I got to learn how to cook my favorite Thai foods, spicy spicy. I don't mean to brag, but I basically make the best green curry ever. Thanks to our tiny upbeat chef making us laugh the entire class, it will definitely be unforgettable.

Not My Favorite Day Tour

While in Chiang Mai, some of my friends and I decided to head over to Tiger Kingdom to see the beautiful animals there. We all had read about the purity - or lack thereof - concerning these "sanctuaries" or "rehabilitation centers." At Tiger Kingdom were tigers, and even lions, locked in very small cages being photographed, and taunted by foreigners and workers alike. The Kingdom says that they "rescue" the tigers at a young age, rehabilitate them, and release them back into the wild at 2 years old. However, what grown ass Tiger is going to laze around while people playing with its tail and rubbing its backside? A drugged tiger. What baby is not going to try to playfully bite? A drugged baby. The feeling in the pit of my stomach at this place was not good. I paid the money to see the smallest tigers. I gave them as much love as I could ,and otherwise tried to observe the workings of the facility. I couldn't wait to leave. A month later, I learned that the sister-sanctuary run by monks outside of Bangkok would be closed because of abuse, and exploitation for tourisms sake.

Most Memorable Encounters

Me and My Sukhothai Lifesave, Mr Ng

In Sukhothai my friends and I borrowed bicycles to ride 14km to the famed ancient ruins in this small dusty town. After riding along the same route for some time, I sped up as much as I could, eventually looking back to see that my friends were no where in sight. I returned to where I saw them last, backtracking the same way, and still no where to be found. I had no internet or cellular reception to use. I had no idea what the name of my hostel, or the name of the ruins were. I had no idea where I was. Continuing on the path, I asked directions. No other city in Thailand gave me so much of a language barrier. I pointed, and used simple words. Most people directed me to the police station, which I went to. Eventually, I said to myself that I had no choice but to hitchhike. The heat was a desert, I had no water, and I just wanted to find my friends. This is the second of many times that I would hitchhike in Southeast Asia. I waved down a truck. The driver did not speak English. Luckily, there was a phone number on my bicycle for the hostel I was staying at. With some hand motions, the driver invited me into his car, put my bike in the trunk, and off we went for AN HOUR in search of my hostel. I will definitely remember Ng as my angel that day. When we finally arrived where I was staying, I offered him money that he refused. All he wanted was a selfie with me as a thank you. This is when communicating via laughter becomes a powerful tool in foreign travel.

Best Self-Employed Day Tour

While I was traveling on my own for a week in Kanchanaburi, I had met some Canadians and American who wanted to rent motorbikes. On our last day together we drove to Erawan National Park, where there are some killer waterfalls, and we made the drive up to Hellfire Pass for some World War II history and memorials. I suppose we didn't realize that the driving would take two times longer than google maps says, since we were on motorbikes. However, it was certainly a highlight to drive two hours to Hellfire Pass and walk the circuit of memorials in the valley there. We leisurely strolled through many Australian memorials and Western memorials. The powerful history of the abuse towards the Prisoners of War, from places like the United States, United Kingdom, Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, Malaysia, Australia, and New Zealand, really brought a spiritual and meaningful presence to the experience of walking through the place where thousands were killed. Why have I never learned about the Japanese in WWII and POWs before? Nazi Germany, and People's American History of the United States must have occupied all of my history courses. When the war was over, railway was not able to be used past a certain distance, and it was later destroyed. People slaved and died for it under Japanese regime, and then it was taken apart once repossessed by England. It was certainly heavy, educational, and memorable to be there. Simply learning about the conditions the POWs were living in brought tears to my eyes. After Hellfire Pass we drove another two hours around the National Park to the entrance, where we trekked through the jungle and swam in the waterfall for a short while before riding another two hours back to town and visiting the night market for dinner. This tour is offered by local companies, and costs over 1,000 baht. We did it for about 500 each. There is nothing like the wind in your hair while speeding along an empty highway with nothing but your thoughts and a destination. 

The view looking out over hellfire pass

Favorite Animal

My favorite animal in Thailand is, by far, the elephant. During my first visit in Chiang Mai, my friends and I day-toured to the Save the Elephants Wildlife Reserve. It is one of two reputable elephant sanctuaries in Thailand. It is the ONLY wildlife reserve that allows for the animals to roam free on many acres of land, feeds them, bathes them, and does not allow any other kinds of touching or riding. Hopefully, the government will eventually have a wildlife sanctuary to help save the elephants - for now the Thai gov't seems to keep its head down over the topic. The elephants we met were beaten, broken, and wounded by the life they had before they were rescued. Some of them were forced loggers, or forced into reproduction - essentially being put into a cage and raped by the male elephant for the benefit of people. All "domesticated" elephants in Thailand are taken at a young age from their mother, the wild, or both, and put into a cage that does not allow them to move - at all. While in that cage for three days they are tortured, stabbed, and beaten until they stop crying. My friends and I tearfully watched videos, during the tour, of the abuse that all "domesticated" elephants in Thailand go through. It's the concept that breaking their spirit will give them a new one, and that new spirit will do whatever its told. They wont cry or fight for their mother anymore. They will just shake from trauma, withstand the weight that they're bodies are not meant to hold - or they will be beaten more without restraint. Elephants are such soft, elegant, sensitive creatures. There was no way I could spend a day at this sanctuary seeing the abused elephants - some with permanent physical damage or emotional trauma - and not fall completely in love with these giant beauties.

Standing in front of the White Temple in Chiang Rai during sunset.

Most Profound Spiritual Experience
The most beautiful Buddhist temple I have ever seen was in Chiang Rai at the White Temple. The design of how the sun hit the white building and all of its mosaic bling - along with the actually enforced ambiance of silence and respect - made this place one of the most peaceful temples I have ever been to. 

Best Island

Koh Lanta. Low season was the best gift I could have received, and Koh Lanta was the deliverer. This conservative Muslim island was essentially abandoned during low season, so my friends and I had complete run of it. We did whatever we wanted, skinny dipped, sped around on motorbikes, slept anywhere, danced for no reason, climbed trees for coconuts - it was paradise. We were completely free. Between traveling with a group of high spirited loving people, the empty beaches, partial nudity, fast motorbikes, good and cheap food, and abandoned resorts, there was absolutely no way that I would change a second of my time there.



Most Rebellious Experience
While staying on Koh Lanta, my friends ventured to a rocky beach where a resort was locked up for the "off season." There they decided to set up camp for the night using mosquito nets and hammocks. The night before the campout we had a full BBQ, in the dark during a rainstorm. Using all of the utilities of this abandoned resort, we had shelter, an oven, a bathroom, and everything. It was probably the best trespassing decision of my life.

Best Party

For an every day party, I would say Chiang Mai had it going on. It was possibly my favorite city in Thailand. Every night all of the travelers would cultivate their little backpack community at Zoe's in Yellow - a local indoor/outdoor club taking up an entire block of the city. The best party, however, was celebrating the Thai New Year (Song Kran/Water Festival) for five days in Chiang Mai. All of the streets became a party. There was music blasting constantly, trucks of people with ice-water buckets stuck in traffic and attacking any passerby. The party started around 10am and ended at sundown, when everyone changed their soaking wet clothes, got cleaned up, and prepared to head out for a crowded dance-party at Zoe's. This went on for days. People wore raincoats and ponchos to drive through the city on their motorbikes. Tuktuks locked their windows. Everyone with a brain kept their phones in a waterproof sealed bag. Travelers coming and going during the festival had  to run through the streets so as to not get their travel bags soaked. Everyone had a water gun or bucket of some kind. It didn't rain at all during the entire festival, yet there was flooding half of a foot on some streets, and the road constantly looked as if a storm had just passed. There was no leaving your home unless you were prepared to get wet. People who were not in the spirit stalked up on food like it was the apocalypse so that they could survive without leaving their home. There was no way you wouldn't make friends, or be attacked by local children. There was just no way you could not have fun. So Tee Pee Mai! (Happy New Year)

SongKran by Day

SongKran by night

Best Hostel

The best hostel I stayed at, was hands down, Potae's guesthouse in Chiang Mai. Potae was a young lady who opened her business less than a year earlier. I would say that Potae and I became friends during the week that I stayed with her. She had everything, pods for beds so there was plenty of privacy, air con, small breakfast, directions and tours for anything and everything, and during the Songkran Water Festival she provided us all with buckets of water to dive into the Thai New Year with. She even hosted a night out with all of the hostel guests during the last night of the festival.

Proudest Accomplishment
I successfully received my Open Water Diver license. It has opened me up to an underwater world of possibilities in my future travels and adventures. Also, on my last dive of the course, I got to swim next to an enormous barracuda that you can vaguely see in the photo.

Best Sunsets
Nothing compares to the island sunsets

Most Memorable Moment
I had many many many memorable moments in Thailand. Getting lost with my Swiss and English friends in the dry jungle of Pai on our adventurous hike to a waterfall. Nights of dancing in Chiang Mai, and making loads of friends there. Reuniting with the same friends when I returned to Chiang Mai a month later. Diving in Koh Tao, and cliff jumping in Koh PhiPhi. The adventures of Koh Lanta, and the White Temple in Chiang Rai. Jungle walks, beaches, ancient ruins, border crossings, Khoasan Road, hospital visits, Royal City Avenue, temples. After its all said and done, the people I went on these adventures with added life to my day, and a skip in my step. They made the taste sweeter, the day brighter, the music smoother, the high higher, the laughter louder. My Swiss, English, Canadian, Kiwi, Danish, and Austrian friends are who I will carry with me in my heart forever. When it comes to Thailand, my most memorable moments will always have one of them in it.

A Peak Into Communist China

China wasn't at all what I imagined it would be. I imagined people eating fried bugs, and frogs, fish pedicures, people being afraid of the police, no sign of any holiday spirit, and I was prepared to be a defensive victim at every turn. Defensive of my rights - my liberty that I am so used to having.

Well, I've learned that it takes a lot of effort to peak into the true life of Communist China. I stayed in or around Beijing, China for nearly 3 weeks. Granted, it was a small window of the country - with more time and money I might have traveled to Hangzou, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Chengdu, and maybe a few other hoppin locations that I've have yet to hear about. Instead I spent 3 weeks between suburban Beijing in Hebei Province, and the center of Beijing. I'm glad that I stayed put getting to know my environment and spending time with my God sister, and I certainly learned a lot from the experience.

Of course, what I have to say about life in China and communism is based on my limited experience - 3 weeks in one city is not saying too much. As I observed, some Chinese (particularly those who haven't traveled beyond China) don't even realize that they are living in a country so strict, and so limiting compared to the rest of the world. Whereas others feel the full effects of the adverse ways of life. Something crucial that I learned (having never really studied China in my free time) was that there is no judicial system in place. No judges. No lawyers. No trials. If a rule is broken, the person goes to prison, work camp (the same as that which I have been taught about during World War II in Nazi Germany), or they are killed. No questions asked. If they are lucky, their entire family will not face the same punishment. As I understand it, that sort of luck is uncommon.

I never felt unsafe in China. In fact, traveling around, accessibility of supermarkets, taxis, public transportation, and street markets, was familiar to me as if I were in a Chinese version of New York City. It was the most Western-feeling place that I had been in over a month. There were paved roads - wide ones - and even sidewalks with street lights. I was grateful to be staying with my godsister. We enjoyed the holidays together, and learned together. She taught me many of the dos and don'ts and helped guide my way. After one day in China, there was no question about it, having a guide is an enormous benefit. No one speaks English. No one. Hardly anything is written in English. Hardly anything. There's no doubt that I would have found my way (particularly with the skillful communication of body language and hand gestures) but it might have taken a lot of misdirection first. In a country where the language is routed in Latin, Greek, or Germanic, I would have been able to figure it out - but Chinese may as well be a bunch of clicks and ticks or cat scratches on a wood panel. There is no way to just "figure it out."

I never had a desire to come to China before. Having studied so thoroughly the effects of communism in European history, it was my goal to stay as far away from communism as possible. I didn't even want to be a tourist supporting their economic growth - to me its a slap in the face to the people who remain oppressed no matter what the government gains. I came to spend the holidays with my godsister, and it was worth it to see her, get to know her better, and learn about her life in China. However, after several days in Beijing, and getting to know many different Chinese locals, expats, and travelers, I can say that I wish I had seen more of China, met more people, had even more experiences. I would certainly consider going back - maybe after learning some basic Chinese.

Although my opinion of communism is fairly low, that's not to say that I'm ignorant to how America functions as a government as well. They do things in secret. They kill innocent people. They fuel the fires of oppression in many ways. Sometimes I am happy to be an uninvolved citizen, and sometimes I feel the need to stand up for goodness and fairness. However, Americans still have a million freedoms that the Chinese don't, straight down to how schools are run, how people live in their homes, how much money is spent on pleasures, what you should or shouldn't freely say, etc. In America, I never questioned whether I could have a hot shower every day, or how publically I could celebrate my holidays or my religion. American government might do some sleazy stuff, but we Americans still receive a great deal in our lives.

No matter how I feel about the government and communism, the people are truly authentic here, and many of them are deeply oppressed. They are oppressed in every way that I imagine. I have never been so grateful for my liberties, opportunities, and overall spoiledness that comes with being American.

In China the people are friendly, but not helpful. They give their opinions, but not loudly. Helping each other is not encouraged by the government. There is no law after all. If a fight breaks out, people will watch, maybe use words to calm the situation, or just walk by. This behavior would make them a bystander in the United States, it might be deemed selfish and cowardly. But what if a simple spontaneous decision to be brave over an everyday problem means death or life in a prison? I would be a lot more likely to think first, act later, or never - depending. Getting involved in other peoples business means that you are subject to the same suffering or benefits as that person. Most people would rather not take the chances of getting in trouble.

There are many beautiful and authentic things about China. As I'm sure you can imagine that the government doesn't entirely define you or your life, so it is the same in China. It has much to offer the world and it treats whiter skinned foreigners, like myself, like gold. China wants a good worldly reputation, so tourists are treated very well. I've even heard of white people being paid to be in promotional videos and photos for money. Most Chinese are not so lucky to have a large apartment, with internet, a hot shower, and heating system. The students at the local University have to wait in line - in the cold, or any other season - to use the showers, and they have to pay. They have to pay money that some people don't even have.

Beijing to me, is fascinating. It's bigger and far more spread out than New York City. The foods are different than anything I have ever seen. Some are in thick sweet sauces, just like American Chinese food, there are a thousand different things that I have seen pre-packaged (that looks slimy and undesirable). The street food is excessive, delicious, and as amazing as an endless food court, there are lots of noodles and rice, and yummy Hot Pot. In case you didn't know, because I didn't, Hot Pot is a soup based fondue. It was my first meal in China. My godsister and I went to a local restaurant, ordered vegetables and thinly sliced meats, and cooked them in the soup broth, then removed them after cooking and feasted. It appears as though the people in China always eat family style, and always order excessively at restaurants. One order per person is just a silly idea, even though (when the food does come out) it is a platter-full of eats. Thank God "take-away" is a norm in this country.

The subways are another adventure. After navigating through at least 10 different subway systems in major cities throughout Europe and America, I feel I am pretty accustomed to how they typically work. After all, they are all fairly similar. Beijing's subway was no different. If anything, it was more organized and higher security than any subway I had ever been on.

I've been told by many different people that helping each other is not cultural in China, just as shoving is not discourteous. On the subways people shove into, past, and even through each other like hypnotized cattle. During rush hour, cramming into a car requires effort, moving towards the door to get ready to exit requires effort, and holding on for dear life so as not to be swept out of the train by the foot traffic can even be dangerous! The swarms of people shoving and moving like a mob of fish reminded me of the abused horses I saw while trekking in Nepal. The horses would push right past whoever was in their path, if they didn't do what they were supposed to they would be whipped, so my only option was to get the hell out of their way! I have my own methods on the train during times when its full. I tuck my arms in, clip my backpack tightly, and get away from the door if it's not my stop to get off.

Everything I became accustomed to doing in NYC exists in a Chinese version here - the subway, the food, the shopping, the schools, the street food, the tourists spots, and the different burroughs of the city.

People here are the same as the average person in New York. They behave (obey the law), do as their told, go to work, and keep to themselves so there are no problems. One of the major differences is that people do not break the law nearly as often. There is no pick pocketing. No fighting (or far less). People don't commit crimes - at least not serious ones. If they do, they may as well be committing themselves to a brutal prison system, and maybe take their family along with them. Luckily, theft is not an issue on the busy subways - I mean, do you think theft would be an issue if the possible punishment is death or life in prison for you and your entire family? I didn't think so. The person who breaks the law in China is selfish, desperate, or both.

Communism has found a way to keep order through fear, and if people here stay in order then they can also have a false sense of freedom. Children and University students have no freedom. Every waking hour they are practicing something, or studying something, and the living conditions can be terrible for anybody.
The simple understanding of how college students are selected, treated, and what jobs they receive is a perfect example of lack of liberty that I would never stand for in my own life. Luckily, I have a choice.
A high school student is required to take a college entrance exam that will essentially determine the course of their entire life. The exam determines which University they will attend, whether it will be a Chinese University, what they will study, and what their post graduate profession will be. There is no choice otherwise. You can imagine, that doing well in school - cheating - is very common. Everyone cheats, not just on the entrance exam but throughout college. Failure is not an option because a small misstep could change the course or life.

Read more from the New York Times:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/01/world/asia/burden-of-chinas-college-entrance-test-sets-off-wide-debate.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

There are ways to be defiant to some extent. In Beijing there were Christmas lights, cardboard cutouts of Santa's face on windows, and Christmas trees in many plazas. Christianity here is allowed by the communist run churches, but celebrating a holiday that is not a government holiday so openly, is looked down upon by the government. I except that a crack-down will happen after such a widely expressive Christmas season in the city. The Christmas tree lights were beautiful lining some of the streets in different districts. Beforehand, I imagined that everything would be bare - there would be no holiday spirit, everything would be black and white with no colorful expression. I was pleasantly surprised to find that there was holiday cheer in the air, and some version of Christmas songs playing in many of the supermarkets I went into. I learned that some locals don't like the communist run Christian churches. For example, on July 1st, which is a national holiday, the churches say all of the same prayers as usual, but rather than praising Jesus, they praise the communist party. That is something I would refuse to do. The people who are like me have secret churches, underground, in basements, or their friends houses. They have services, and exercise their human rights to believe in and praise whoever they want.

If I were Chinese, I just assume practice my religion in private. I wouldn't want to go to a communist-run church, but I also wouldn't feel the need to risk my life by going to a secret church. My body is the temple after all.

To dig deeper on all of the human rights, religious rights, and freedom of speech issues, I had an interesting conversation with a few different local people concerning my work as a social worker. Social workers don't really exist in China. The homeless go to prison. The mentally ill are either killed via infanticide (most likely, since there are no official records), taken care of by their family, or arrested doing something they shouldn't and sent to a work camp. Mental illness does not exist in China. People know about it, they know the names for different illnesses (as much as any American would),  and they are kind to one another. However, there is no empathy, no trial, if a mentally ill person gets in a fight, steals, runs away from home, makes a scene of any kind, or breaks any other kind of law - thats their one strike to get out. The police know what mental illness is, but the arrested mentally ill person will either be sent home or sent to a work camp after committing a crime. There is no program, no treatment for mental illness. In Viet Nam and Thailand, there is also no treatment. No need really... the "undocumented" rates of infanticide in these parts of the world would be probably be disturbing. Other than a limping walk (most likely from old age), I have not seen one person with any kind of physical disability. I am currently in the greater city area of Beijing where the population is upwards of 20 million (verses NYC's 8.4 million in 2013). I have seen two black people, and no disabled people in the course of 18 days.

Mental illness sufferers get locked in cages. Political prisoners get sent to mental institutions. 

http://www.cnn.com/2014/05/06/world/asia/china-mental-health/

According to an American newspaper:

1. "Statistics released by China's National Center for Mental Health showed that as of the year of 2009, 100 million Chinese suffered from mental health problems with more than 160 million citizens afflicted with serious mental illnesses such as schizophrenia and paranoid psychosis." http://www.theatlantic.com/china/archive/2013/07/unable-to-cope-chinas-inadequate-care-of-the-mentally-ill/278170/

But what is the treatment? How are they cared for? It's all lacking. The entire institution and approach to mental illness is enough to make someone in the helping profession nauseous. The conversation where I first began to learn all of this before researching on my own, it made me feel sad and sick when I was told the facts out loud.

You might be wondering, as I would be if I were you, how I was able to even find this information while in China. Facebook, instagram, gmail, international new sites, etc - are all blocked or banned in China. Luckily, I paid for a VPN a few months ago so that I could occasionally watch American movies on the internet, and even more lucky is that the VPN works phenomenally while in China. If I were in China without a VPN than all of this information would be utterly inaccessible. 

It's such a simple thing, being able to research news information, that it never occurred to me as something I should be grateful for being able to do! Grateful for a computer, yeah because many people can't afford one. Grateful for internet, yeah because some people don't lived in a developed world where internet is accessible. But, for the people who have computers, and internet, I never thought about being grateful for what I can access with it.

My experience in China has made me all-the-more grateful for the life I have back in the United States. For example, the air in China can have extremely high pollution on some days, and on others (particularly after a good windy day) have none. I never really understood why I've seen Chinese people wearing face masks in public, but now I welcome it for myself simply so that my head is clear breathing in clean air. Some days, when the pollution was bad, I didn't feel well. On an average pollution day, I could feel the burning in my nose like I might have a nose bleed at any second. I couldn't imagine not being able to exercise outside regularly. It's such a simple thing to think about.

China made me grateful for so many simple things, straight down to the air that I breathe, private stalls in the women's bathroom, going to church, exercising outside, speaking English, access to Google, and on and on it goes. Being reminded to be grateful for all of these things which I have back in the United States did not make me less grateful for the amazing experience of China. Whatever I lost, I gained something else tenfold through my experiences.. Having less just leaves opportunity for gaining more - both in spirit and character. I appreciate all that I was able to learn just by seeing how the other half (of the world) lives.

It's obvious that I didn't have many positive thing to say about communism, but that doesn't necessarily speak to my personal experience in China either. At first, my deeply rooted empathy for humanity made it all the more difficult to have any involvement with such negative and harmful environments as communism provides. However, while in China I experienced all kinds of humanity on an interpersonal, and micro scale. I watched Chinese people help each other, and on several occasions people helped me find my way, understand new information, even simple things like find the right kind of lotion in a corner store. Despite the limited communication, I had a fantastic one-on-one experience of Chinese people. I watched couples in love and saw the defiance in it. Rather than follow the old traditions of marrying for status, the young Chinese generation is moving towards marrying for love, and being honest with their partner. I met several couples, and many Chinese travelers, who spoke English, and shared with me their experiences, their ups and downs, and their private opinions about what life is like for them.

I've known many Chinese Americans throughout my life. Particularly after attending school at NYU, I felt as though there was a Chinese takeover coming to the States. Chinatown just keeps growing and growing - Little Italy is almost non-existent anymore. I never fully understood the profound nature of their culture, the challenge of the language, or the importance of upholding an essence of their way of life. There's a Chinatown in countless major cities in the U.S. and I think now I can at least begin to understand why. What sets the Chinese apart from other cultural Americans? I imagine that taking the beautiful Chinese culture in China, and giving the people freedom and liberty too, can do a whole lot for their way of life. It's a transformation. A loud, exciting, loving, hospitable, and respectful culture suddenly has permission to become louder, friendlier, and more helpful just because their fears of government are taken away. They have the freedom to share themselves with others, which probably makes it even more important to them than the average American who never had that sort of  strictness, fear, and struggle present in their immediate lineage. Its the same as a culture coming from war, except for the battle is within themselves - every day they must have poise and obedience. Every day they must walk the line and not stagger.

The Chinese people are truly magical, interesting, and fantastic to learn from.

I am so grateful that, despite my anticipation entering into the country, I was able to leave loving the  people and therefore slowly but surely falling in love with their authentic ways of life. 

The Tourist Hustle

Lets talk about being a tourist. My experience, having now reached country #32 in my world journey, has given me an opportunity to fully see the tourist hustle in all of its poor and fortunate qualities. Today I’m hoping to share with you a little bit about what I’ve learned.

For some reason, just because I am a tourist, people tend to assume that I am Bill Gates rich. It’s apparent that I have enough money to get to my location, but I don’t see that as a humane reason for exploiting me for every cent I possibly have.

Setting aside all of the judgments I receive as a tourist every day, being a tourist in and of itself – especially on a budget – can be wild! Traveling is constant chaos, planning, thinking, adapting, etc. I have to know the map, and I remember it almost by heart sometimes because my brain now sees map memorizing as a survival skill. Thus my memory has improved. I have to know what’s in my bank account – roughly. I have to know what’s in my pocket. Do I have x y and z? Where are my things? Have I booked the flight, checked the bus schedule, figured out where the bus stop is, found out the address of where I’m staying, where will I sleep next, will I be getting back at night, is the vibe safe, does my door lock, will the hostel do last minute booking, is there really 24/7 hot showers, 24 hour cancellation policy, how do I get to these ten thousand places I’m recommended to go to, what are some cultural laws here, how do I say hello, goodbye, thank you, and enough – and on and on and on. Not all the same questions every day. Of course, I always become familiar with a new place after a day or two, and I always figure out when, how, and what exactly needs to be done. Sometimes when I “figure it out” its really me, just stumbling upon an adventure, reminder, or good fortune.

Asking the right questions, as a tourist, is very important. Sometimes, the person I’m asking doesn’t understand me. Sometimes they lie to me unbeknownst or on purpose. Sometimes my American phrases make no sense in a different culture. Sometimes my direct question is answered – but a lot of the time, all of the helpful information surrounding the answer is omitted. It would be overly dutiful to divulge every bit of information that could be helpful from a local or experienced stranger to me. Then I have to be more specific, asking a thousand questions and getting all of my answers. My thousands of questions are usually directed towards someone who is doing their job by answering them. What time do we get up? What is included? Why does it cost this much? Where do we go? What should we wear? What do the locals do? What is culturally appropriate? Why is the plan like this?

When it comes to bargaining (which is common in many African and Asian countries) I pull out all of the stops. Most of the items sold using bargaining are from China, mass-produced and poor quality. I have to know my product, so that the salesperson can’t trick me. I know how to tell if its real leather, real wool, cotton, silk, made in China or locally – I know all of the tricks. I didn’t always know all of the tricks. I’ve met honest salespeople, who taught me, or I remember something arbitrarily said in my vicinity and recall it as currently useful, or I do a little research. Sometimes strangers are the most helpful tools and sometimes they are deceptive.

I cannot recall how many times I have been lied to on this trip. Even with directions, I might ask 4 different locals the same question and receive 4 different answers. I never go with my first answer. I must have research or several unrelated opinions to support the answers that I receive.

People who are selling, or have any possibility to gain from tourist money, are usually people that I am hesitant to trust. On more than one occasion I have called out salespeople for lying to me. I say, this isn’t made here, and I explain why, and then I ask why their price is higher for a less genuine quality item. I have no shame. They are the ones trying to trick me, and I am the one with the money to spend. Sometimes, I say it loudly and they don’t like me deterring other people from their store so they tell me to go to another shop instead. I gladly leave to spend my money somewhere else. How a person responds to me can sometimes tell me if I should be giving them my money or not. Especially in poor countries, if I give me business and my money somewhere I want it to be with good genuine people. I don’t know them right away, but I know if I feel lied to or if I feel connected and happy with someone.

Basically, any time I am asked to pay over $20 for something– I have to ask questions. Where is my money going? If all of these shops and hotels are the same, then I am not going to the one where the person working there is creepy, or rude.

It’s the same at hotels and hostels. Whenever someone books something on my behalf, there is some kind of commission taken – so I need to compare costs with other companies or, book it on my own (if its even possible). It’s nice when people, places, or companies make decent sounding offers for tours or adventures – but I never take my first offer. Not unless I’ve already seen what else is out there. Some countries set up their tourist systems so that I have to book through a company. Then the prices get cut throat. I could spend more than $50 extra just because I didn’t ask around. That’s 2 – 5 nights in a hostel. I like places with no commission.

Trust no one, when it comes to money, especially as a tourist in a foreign country.

Even the ATMs, I always remember to check for cameras and cover up my card when I insert it, or block my pin number when I type it in. On more than one occasion I have seen illegally placed cameras just above the screen of the ATM, and commonly there are cameras in the room or stall where it is kept.

The tourist hustle is that of exploitation. Everyone wants a piece of the money-cake. Have money will travel, therefore people who travel have money. Maybe not everyone has a ton, but they have enough to get where they are. So the recommendations tourists receive from locals, restaurants, hostels, or hotels have to do with promotion, advertisement, tips, tax, and whose hand is in what pile of cash. Nice hotels typically recommend fancy restaurants, or just higher class restaurants where the toilets are clean, there are white tablecloths and the manager always takes care of you - too expensive for me. Tour guides send me anywhere that might make them money, unless they genuinely want me to experience the culture (that depends on the type of people I meet and at what point in our relationship they start giving me advice). Often, people who freely throw advice about where to go and what to do, are either overeager tourists who think that their good opinion will probably be universal, or locals who are trying to send me somewhere that will make them or their family money. Sometimes, at least while I’m traveling, when I throw in my two-cents without being asked, it is simply because I want someone to talk to. People who only give advice when it’s asked, sometimes after chatting for a little, those are the ones who usually have genuine quality opinions and experiences to share with me, and aren’t doing it in their own self-interest.

Finding a unique local experience can be difficult. In fact, sometimes I know where I am in a city simply because I followed the tourist-looking-whiter-people. It was often fairly obvious where the tourists were. Even without any visible differences between the locals and tourists, its easy to find the hotspot locations – the prices are higher, the amount of people is denser, and there is someone on the side of the road selling souvenirs (sometimes in a near-harassing manner). Sometimes, if I am lost, I can just follow the increasing prices to get to my tourist location – when I was in Helsinki, that is how I stumbled along the fish market. The cafés along the crowded main street I was walking along (lost and bored) continually charged 3, then 5, then 8 euros for a coffee. Smells like I’m approaching my tourist destination.

The recommendations I always received from hostels were often a thousand times better than any hotels. While youth backpacking, I have met people of all ages and backgrounds. Usually the recommendations are for - where to get a free something, a cheap but awesome meal, and good local beer. Then I’ve relied on all of my random interactions along the way to show me what to do next. I usually don’t know what I will do in a place until I get there. The locals know the best, and the cheapest ways to do things. Other tourists do too. Usually the tourists who are leaving have the most interesting feedback to consider. Consider, not follow. Listening is important, and I usually listen to what people recommend to do or not, but everyone has different preferences, so consideration is the most I can do. Sometimes if something sounds amazing, and I know nothing about it, I do it anyway – going in blind. Sometimes if something sounds terrible, I look it up first, and then I do it anyway after determining my own opinion. Only a few times has my last-minute spontaneous planning not worked out, mainly because something I wanted to do was a “touristy” thing, and I needed more than a days notice to book it, or sign up. I missed out on the original “Last Supper” by Michaelangelo, I didn’t do a tour of glaciers or fjords in Norway, and I never hiked up the Eiffel Tower. But, I have a lot more, memories of what I did do than what I didn’t. Instead of seeing the “Last Supper” I saw all of the art museums in Milan. Instead of a tour of Norway, I took a 6 hour train ride across the country seeing fjords and glaciers. Instead of hiking the Eiffel Tower, I partied underneath it, and walked the entire city of Paris. God always seems to have a better plan for me than I do. Often, missing the touristy adventure means going on an alternative adventure for me.

Tourism truly is a hustle. The broker I am, and cheaper I am living, the more genuine help and less hustle I deal with. Staying somewhere nice - or revealing in any way that I have some money in my pocket - usually means I have to deal with some exploitative bullshit.

Here's my little anecdote to illustrate how complicated something simple can be, just because of tourism.

When I was in Kathmandu Nepal, I was looking for a wool scarf to give as a gift. I had already bought one with the same make, style, and genuine quality wool in Pokhara, Nepal where it was 1,500 Rupees. In Kathmandu, I finally stumbled across a salesman who offered the exact scarf I was looking for. He told me 3,200 Rupees (of course this is the start of the bargain, so I know that is what I will not pay). I counter the offer with 1,000 Rupees. I know this is far too low, since the salesman I had bought from in Pokhara paid 1,400 and sold it to me for 1,500. When I offered 1,000 Rupees the shopkeeper laughed at me and said he can’t sell it to me for that price. I expected that response. When Nepali salesmen say they can’t sell it at that price, they mean it, and they look genuinely sad when they say it. I told him, look I have this exact thing at home, and I bought it in Pokhara for 1,500. I’ll give you that, and we can be done. He didn’t believe me, because bargaining is a lying game and he hasn't learned yet that I am a genuine person and on a budget. I said, really, I’m telling you the truth. What are you buying your scarves for?? 1,500 is a good price, a fair price. He tells me honestly, and I believe him, that there is no way he could buy that scarf for that much money and therefore sell it to me for less. Unlike some shop owners, he persisted in explaining it to me rather than taking the scarf out of my hands dismissively. I persist, how much did you pay for these (the scarves) then? Because you know, and now I’m sitting and looking him in the eye so he knows I’m just having a genuine casual conversation with him, I say if another salesman can sell this same thing to me for less then your price, then I think you’re paying your distributor too much. He bought his for 1,800. I knew I wanted the scarf and it was hard to come by, so I said to the guy, listen, I know you want to sell this, and you know I want to buy it, so lets come to an agreement where you give me a price that is fair and not ridiculous, and I give you a price where you can make a little profit. This type of patience and honesty is necessary in human connections, particularly with someone who is in the position to constantly rip-off tourists and exploit them. Those people may or may not have an interest in knowing the tourist, but if they can see a little humanity instead of a giant dollar sign on my forehead, then I feel like the interaction is far more enjoyable. I entered into a great conversation with the salesman about business sales, and distributors that charge less. After I told him it would be better if he had a fixed price, and sold based on the concept that he is making X amount of profit on every item, with no bargaining, then he would increase sales and not annoy tourists. It was a revelation to him that tourists don’t like to bargain. When he expressed that to me, I vented a little bit. No, I don’t like to bargain! Every time I bargain I feel someone trying to rip me off, cheat me, or lie to me, and all I want is a damn scarf. It’s not a good feeling to be always cheated or lied to. He laughed, but I think he also understood my sincerity. I imagine these people get just as sick of being scammed as the next person. The man thanked me for my advice and said something about our destiny's colliding so that his business would improve. I thanked him for the scarf that I bought for 2,000. ($20 is pretty good for a hand embroidered wool scarf I’d say.)

Anyway, that’s the tourist hustle as I have experienced it in Europe, Africa, Central America, and now Asia. It’s not avoidable. Coping with the feeling of always being lied or cheated (as a tourist) can be exhausting and can cause negativity or impatience when encountering new locals or businesses. Even when I know someone is overcharging (and I am well aware they are trying to exploit me and fellow-travelers) I always remember to have patience and kindness towards them. Sometimes its just the culture that makes things that way. Sometimes its just a poor country, and people are just doing whatever they can to survive. Usually, its easy to tell within the first few minutes of a conversation whether someone is cheating me or not, whether they are genuine or not. However, I sometimes find it difficult to understand whether people are genuine when I am encountering them within my first few days in a new place, with a new language – before I’ve fully grasped the tradition and way of life in the new place. But I’ve learned to cope with the feelings of being lied to or cheated. By having the kind of empathy that helps me to understand why one might want to exploit me, talk to me naggingly, or over-charge me, I can learn how to love them anyway and detach myself from any offense. I have made the tourist hustle bearable, and I am comfortable navigating the exploitative environment by:

1)   Knowing my facts and my research so that I am concrete in my opinion and understanding of how things work and cost wherever I am.

2)   Swallowing my pride and having patience to a degree that I am comfortable with.

3)   Being honest and empathetic.

4)   Loving people no matter what, and always making sure to part on good terms. Burning bridges and people creates a bad karma that I don’t want. 

5)   Trusting myself and standing my ground.